What to look for when buying antique or estate diamond jewelry

Summary: When buying antique or estate jewelry, it's important to keep in mind the all-important four Cs but you should also be aware of whether you're buying a true antique or just a piece of estate jewelry.

When buying antique or estate jewelry, it's important to keep track of the four Cs (cut, color, clarity and carat weight ). But you've also got to know whether you're buying an actual antique or simply an estate piece. So let's add two more Cs: cost and credibility.

Cut: Cut is one of the most important considerations when buying a diamond. The way in which a gemstone is cut affects its appearance and its durability - as well as its value. Diamonds are generally cut into shapes that best accentuate clarity and brilliance. Most common shapes for diamonds are brilliant (round), baguette, marquise, oval, pear and princess (square) cuts.

Color: Diamonds' grades range from D through Z. Many diamonds may appear to be colorless (or white), but they may have traces of impurities or other elements, which give them a slight yellow or brown tint. D-color diamonds are extremely rare and highly valuable. Color variants in diamonds in the D-F range are often so slight that differentiating among them becomes tremendously difficult in smaller-sized stones. G-rated diamonds are fairly clear; but the further down the alphabet you go, the deeper the color concentration.

Sometimes, diamonds occur naturally in a variety of colors: blues, bright yellows, greens, pinks - even vivid reds. These "fancy" diamonds are extremely rare, expensive and highly valuable.

Clarity: Clarity refers to the size and number of inclusions or imperfections in a diamond. Most of these inclusions are non-crystallized carbon traces, undetectable by the unaided eye. The average consumer would need a microscope (a considerable period of scrutiny and maybe even a trained jeweler) to see them.

The more inclusions in a diamond, the greater the interference with light dispersion; this diminishes the brilliance of the gem. Large or numerous inclusions will also decrease a stone's value. The converse is also true: The fewer or smaller the inclusions, the more valuable the diamond.

Diamonds are rated by clarity under 10x magnification. Diamonds rated IF contain only external flaws, which may be removed by additional polishing. Inclusions in VVS1- and VVS2-rated diamonds are "very, very slight." VS1- and VS2-rated diamonds have "very slight" inclusions. The inclusions in SI1- and SI2-rated stones are "slight"; and the I1- I2- and I3-rated stones have imperfections large enough to be visible to the unaided eye.

Carat Weight: Diamonds are weighed in carats; this doesn't refer to size, shape or diameter. One carat may be divided into units of 100 points; therefore, a -carat diamond is described as being 50 points or 0.50 carat. The larger the diamond, the more expensive it is, per carat; a one-carat diamond costs more than two half-carat diamonds of like cut and clarity.

Cost & Credibility: The better the quality of your diamond, the more it is worth. But don't assume you're getting a valuable diamond because it's pricy. This is where credibility is crucial. Are you buying this diamond from a reputable dealer? Are you really getting what the dealer says you're getting? Is this ring an "antique" or is it really just "estate" (a fancy term for pre-owned) jewelry? The best way to know for sure is by knowing your jeweler. To get the best quality for your dollar - from a trustworthy dealer with years of experience - visit Estate Diamond Jewelry. All they do is estate and antique jewelry.

About the Author

We have a great selection of Antique Engagement Rings available in our New York City location and via our dynamic website at EstateDiamondJewelry.com.

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